Mencía (grape varietal)
Mencía
Spain's Rising Star
Mencía is a red grape variety native to northwest Spain and northern Portugal (where it’s known as Jaen). Once attributed to simple bulk wines, Mencía has emerged as one of Iberia’s most exciting grapes, crafting elegant, aromatic reds that balance fruit and earth with refreshing acidity.
Origin & History
Mencía’s origins are steeped in mystery. Long thought to be related to Cabernet Franc, DNA testing revealed its genetic twin is actually Portugal’s Jaen. While debates continue over whether it originated in Spain’s Bierzo or Portugal’s Dão, its modern revival is undeniable. Nearly wiped out by phylloxera and mid-20th century industrialization, Mencía found salvation in old, hillside vineyards. Pioneering winemakers like Àlvaro Palacios in Bierzo and Raúl Pérez in Ribeira Sacra championed these gnarly old vines, proving Mencía’s potential for complexity and ageability.
Grape Characteristics
Mencía thrives in cool, high-altitude sites with schist and slate soils. Thin-skinned and early-ripening, it’s prone to coulure (poor fruit set) and fungal diseases, demanding meticulous care. The best examples offer a captivating mix of ripe red fruits (raspberry, pomegranate), black pepper, violet florals, and stony minerality. Acidity is bright (meaning med-high), tannins silky, and alcohol moderate (12–14%), creating wines that feel both lively and refined.
Regional Expressions
In Spain’s Bierzo DO, Mencía from clay and iron-rich soils yields fuller-bodied wines with blackberry and licorice notes, often aged in oak for structure. Neighboring Ribeira Sacra’s steep, granite slopes produce lighter, fresher styles with tart cherry and herbal undertones. Portuguese Jaen from Dão leans earthy, with dried fig and tobacco nuances. Modern winemakers experiment with carbonic maceration for juicier fruit or minimal intervention to highlight terroir.
To Sum It All Up...
From its humble past as bulk wine to its current status as a sommelier darling, Mencía captivates with its aromatic complexity and food-friendly versatility. Floral, mineral-driven Ribeira Sacra or a richer Bierzo example? I'd say, go and find out!