Lees Contact

Back From The Dead

Lees contact refers to the practice of keeping wine in contact with the spent yeast cells that settle to the bottom of a tank, barrel, or bottle after fermentation. This traditional technique, often described as 'sur lie' aging in French, enhances complexity, texture, and flavor in both still and sparkling wines.

What Happens in the Wine:
As yeast cells break down over time, they release compounds that transform the wine. This process adds creamy texture and weight to the mid-palate while protecting the wine from premature oxidation. The result is a wine with greater depth, complexity, and often improved ageing potential. Many winemakers stir the lees periodically (a practice called bâtonnage) to increase contact and extract more character.

In Your Glass:
Wines aged on lees develop distinctive flavors that vary by style. In still whites like Muscadet or certain Chardonnays, expect a silky, round mouthfeel with subtle notes of nuts, honey, and bread-like aromas. The lees also help soften acidity, creating a more balanced wine. For sparkling wines, particularly Champagne, extended lees ageing (often 3-5 years or more) creates those beloved brioche, toast, and biscuit notes that complement the wine's natural fruit character.

Practical Applications:
The duration of lees contact varies dramatically by wine style. Non-vintage Champagne must spend at least 12 months on lees by law, while vintage Champagnes require a minimum of three years. Many premium producers extend this further, with some leaving wines on lees for 5-10 years to develop maximum complexity. In still wines, lees contact might last from a few months to a year or more, depending on the desired style.

To Sum It All Up...
Lees ageing represents a fascinating intersection of science and tradition in winemaking. The technique demonstrates how time and patience can transform wine naturally, adding layers of complexity that can't be rushed or artificially created. Understanding lees contact helps explain why certain wines develop those distinctive creamy textures and toasty aromas that many seek out.